First Edition of one of the seminal French works on perfumery, by the most renowned parfumeur of the 17th and early 18th century, Simon Barbe. Written for a lay audience—nonprofessionals, such as attendants to French aristocracy—Le parfumeur françois contains simple but elegant recipes for perfumes, pastilles, pomades, and a variety of powders for wigs. (In 1699 Barbe published his Le parfumeur royal, written for professionals in the fragrance business.) The present work, in addition to containing an original 18-page section strictly dedicated to tobacco and the production of snuff, is also the first time bergamot is described as principal ingredient in perfume. A well-used copy, with stains and minor worming. Pressed between pages 128 and 129 is an antiquated four-leaf clover. A mid-nineteenth-century recipe for a treatment of "taches de rousseur" (pimples?) handwritten to verso of final blank. (Transcription): La tien(?) medicale — du docteur P. D | de caen pour faire desparaître les taches de Rousseur —Eau de Rose 50 gram Eau fl[eu]r. d'oranger 50 [gram] Borate de Soude 05 [gram] Jointe MC docteur Rangue alcool a [sic?] de Benzoin —— 7 [gram] Bien rectez pour 4 fois par jour et laissez sécher sur la visage. Alcool de Benzoin jointe par le docteur Rangue (Docteur Rangue could be the Orléanais alchemist who specialized in treating lead poisoning in the 1830s. Taches de rousseur, translated today as freckles, more likely meant rosacea or acne two centuries ago.)
Lyon: Amaulry, 1693.12mo, 147 x 87 x 12 mm. , 132,  pp. ā8 ē4 ī8 ō4 A8 B4 C8 D4 E8 F4 G8 H4 I8 K4 L8 M4. LACKS ā1, a blank. Modern marbled-paper wrappers. Interior: Title with marginal soiling, staining, and fraying to edges; intermittent damp-staining; some gatherings toned; worming to tail gutter of last several leaves, occasionally touching text but not interfering with legibility.
Brunet IV, 369; Krivatsky 643. Sagarin, Edward. The Science and Art of Perfumery. New York, London: McGraw Hill, 1945. p. 215. Ben Kinmont considers the Amaulry edition to be the first. A 1693 edition with a Michel Brunet imprint exists, and another 1693 edition without imprint is known (at BM Lyon), though that library citation states their exemplar is a Brunet imprint. A side-by side comparison of the Brunet and Amaulry editions reveals that each was produced from the same sheets, with the same dates of permission to publish (9 February 1693) and to print (10 February 1693); the only difference being the text of the imprint on the title pages. The Amaulry edition reads: A LYON, | Chez THOMAS AMAULRY, | ruë Merciere au Mercure Galant. | Et ſe vend auſſi, | Par l'Autheur, demeurant chez le Sr LE COQ, | ruë Ferrandiere vis-à-vis l'Image S. Caude. And the Brunet edition reads: A LYON, | Et ſe vend, A PARIS, Chez MICHEL BRUNET, | la Salle neuve du Palais au d'Auphin, | ET | Chez l'Autheur ruë des Gravilliers, à la Toiſon d'Or. The remainder of the title text is in the same setting, suggesting one title page was composed and printed first, then the six or seven lines of the first imprint removed, and replaced with the second, then finally reimposed and printed. Priority does not appear calculable, though the woodcut headpiece at ā3 in the Brunet issue appears more worn, suggesting the Amaulry was printed first. Not held at the NYPL Arents Tobacco Collection Flückiger, Friedrich August; Hanbury, Daniel. Pharmacographia: A History of the Principal Drugs of Vegetable Origin. London: Macmillan, 1874. p. 109.